3:11p.m. 25th August 2008

| Travis Schultz

From left: Le Baroque owner Michael Palardis, head chef Jacinta, chefs Steve and Chris, and front of house staff Pierre and Sarah.

To the art historian, the Baroque period covers the 17th Century and designates the dominant style of European art between Mannerism and Rococo. To the bon vivant, Le Baroque represents the Coast’s latest innovation in the French dining theme at recently refurbished premises at Buderim’s Gloucester Centre.

Despite its Roman genesis, the connection to the arts and the time of Louis XIV is not misplaced as diners at this French café and patisserie could be eating in Ruben’s home town of Antwerp in Belguim in a centuries-old maison. At Le Baroque a large wooden chandelier illuminates the white linen clad tables that sit like works of art on the backdrop of a dark red carpet, and are balanced by the newly polished timber window sills and architraves.

The proprietaire, Michael Palardis, has transformed the old Piccolo’s site into an indoor/alfresco dining venue, but retained a very visible kitchen where diners can watch the artists ply their trade. The founding owner of Brisbane’s nationally acclaimed Rhubarb Rhubarb, has gone for nothing but the best in his latest venture. Even the exquisite curtains ooze quality – a trimming matched in its elegance by the sophisticated wallpaper and Louis XV period antique furniture.

While the frogs' legs may be missing, the menu has a distinctly Francoise theme with entrees like double baked blue cheese soufflé, waldorf salad and the Quenelles of barrumundi mousse, king prawns and pernod cream reduction (both $18).

Enjoying the rare treat of a mid-week babysitter, TC was determined to make the most of a child-free night out – so entrees, mains and dessert it was! Not that you’d need three of these very filling courses which, typical of the style, were rich, impeccably presented and served with a thick francois accent!

The wine list at Le Baroque is not substantial, but offers nothing but excellent quality wines which are well suited to the cuisine. My main, Le Baroque Cassoulet – slow cooked white beans in light tomato broth, confit duck, smoked bacon, Toulouse sausage, sourdough ($35) was exceptionally well supported by a glass of the Little Rebel Pinot Noir 2006 ($8 per glass / $35 per bottle) while TC’s main of Daube de Boeuf a l’Ancienne – slow cooked beef, potato gnocchi, braised French shallots, lardoons, mushrooms ($33) was the best of the menu. If I’d been matching this “melt in your mouth” masterpiece to a wine, it would have been the Mitolo Jester Shiraz 2006 ($50 per bottle), but TC (the bubbles Queen) was stuck on the Chandon NV ($9 per glass / $45 per bottle) and making the most of the fact that I was driving!

Despite being stuffed to the point of exploding, dessert was irresistible with the champagne swilling espouse ordering the Soft roulade of meringue, strawberry compote while I succumbed to the Crème brulee du jour (both $14). I’ve enjoyed a lot of crème brulee’s in my time, but none so vanilla scented and caramel encrusted as this eqicurean delight!

TC was mesmerized by the young waiter and his enchanting accent and the service at Buderim’s newest dining house was busy, unobtrusive and enthusiastic. In fact, it could be said to be Baroque in style, given that art of that era displayed qualities of rigorous movement and emotional intensity!

Le Baroque at Buderim may not be a relic of the Catholic Counter-Reformation but I could become quite religious about this kind of Wednesday night outing – especially when Grandma Nanna Wrinkles makes it possible to leave the 12-month teething monster at home!